Costumes by all 5 Oscar nominees and 17 different movies are on Show on the FIDM Museum via June.
The “Artwork of Costume Design in Movie” exhibition at FIDM Museum on the Trend Institute of Design & Merchandising in downtown Los Angeles kicked off with a celebration on March 12. Open to the general public freed from cost from Tuesday, March 15 via Saturday, June 4 (closed Sundays and Mondays), the exhibition options 70 costumes on mortgage representing 22 movies, together with all 5 nominated for the 2022 Academy Award for costume design.
This yr’s nominees are Paul Tazewell (West Aspect Story); Jenny Beavan (Cruella); Luis Sequeira (Nightmare Alley); Jacqueline West and Bob Morgan (Dune) and Jacqueline Durran and Massimo Cantini Parrini (Cyrano). Tazewell and West attended the celebration, together with Mark Bridges (Licorice Pizza) and Mary Zophres (The Tragedy of Macbeth) whose costumes are additionally on view at FIDM. Costumes by Sharen Richard (King Richard), Clint Ramos (Respect), Ruth E. Carter (Coming 2 America), Janty Yates (Home of Gucci and The Final Duel), and extra are additionally included within the exhibit.
Nick Verreos, co-chair of the Trend and Movie & TV Costume Design Program at FIDM, advised THR that a aim of the exhibit is to point out a variety of genres, from interval and up to date to sci-fi, in addition to the breadth of what a fancy dress may be.
“For Licorice Pizza, Mark Bridges used half classic from rental retailers and the opposite half had been custom made,” mentioned Verreos. “The white go well with worn by Cooper Hoffman is a discovered classic piece in excellent form that also had the tags, and the label was some obscure retailer within the Valley that’s not even there any extra! In Home of Gucci, Janty Yates pulled one GG-logo tunic for Girl Gaga from the archives, however all the things else was custom-made or shopped at classic shops, Etsy, or The Actual Actual. Yates mentioned that it was actually onerous to search out Tom Ford-era items. And Gucci didn’t even make males’s fits within the ‘70s, so Adam Driver wears a classic Gucci cravat and belt, however all of the Gucci males wore custom Zegna or Brioni fits.”
Pointing to how the present vogue world may be infused into interval movie, Verreos mentioned, “The Tragedy of Macbeth is a black-and-white movie, so Mary Zophres used a variety of texture, and one star-patterned cloak worn by Denzel Washington was custom-made with new Valentino material, as a result of inventive director Pierpaolo Piccioli is an efficient buddy of Frances McDormand.”
He additionally famous that Luis Sequeira studied ‘30s sketchbooks as inspiration for Cate Blanchett’s seems to be in Nightmare Alley, the place 90 p.c of the costumes had been custom made, and Bradley Cooper’s fits “acquired sharper, extra fitted, extra elegant,” as he moved from the carnival world into excessive society in New York Metropolis.
“After which all Will Smith stored telling Sharen Richard each time they did fittings for these custom purple shorts in King Richard was ‘Shorter! Tighter!’” Verreos mentioned, laughing.
First-Time Oscar nominee Tazewell advised THR, “I’m simply so honored to be on this circle. All of the assist that comes with a Steven Spielberg movie is a once-in-a-lifetime alternative. Early on in our conferences, Steven was very clear that, for his model of West Aspect Story, he needed to replicate a extra lifelike view of New York within the mid-Nineteen Fifties — to point out the grit and the rubble of that point. It re-envisioned Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet within the San Juan Hill neighborhood; with the gentrification, buildings had been being torn down in order that Lincoln Middle may very well be in-built that area. That was lovely to embrace once I was fascinated with the clothes. I needed to acknowledge that they had been going to be on concrete streets and sidewalks in entrance of the breathtaking ‘50s retailer fronts that [production designer] Adam Stockhausen recreated.”
To realize this, Tazewell enlisted a workforce of proficient dyers and painters to “paint down, misery, add dust and sweat to fastidiously infuse the designs with as a lot naturalism as doable,” he mentioned, including that the ageing needed to be exactly repeated again and again on costume multiples.
It took about 9 months to create the costumes, together with 1,000 pairs of custom sneakers. At FIDM, a worn-in pair of actress Ariana DeBose’s heels are on show and Tazewell quipped, “You may see that she spent days and days on sizzling asphalt, spinning her life away, actually!”
To tell apart between rival gangs, Tazewell broke seems to be into shade camps. The Jets gang wore cool blues and greens, with grey, black and indigo denim on their rubble playground. “And I needed the Sharks to replicate the place they'd migrated from — the Hispanic islands, Puerto Rico and Cuba — with floral patterns for the tropical local weather and hotter colours, so gold, oranges, reds and browns,” he mentioned. “However Rita Moreno’s floral housecoat is a mixture of blue, yellow and pink, as a result of Valentina lives someplace in between the Latinx group, since she’s married a white man and is a protected area for the Jets and Tony.”
As for the dancing scenes, “Stephen and I needed attire to maneuver in very particular methods for the totally different numbers,” mentioned Tazewell. On show is Ariana DeBose’s standout yellow gown with cold-shoulder sleeves and a purple pleated silk organza underskirt trimmed in satin ribbons. “There have been a variety of cold-shoulder tops out at the moment, two years in the past, so I used to be fascinated with what may stylistically enchantment to a contemporary viewers,” he mentioned. “You see her flipping her skirt round, as a result of it’s so mild and the petticoat was created to answer her physique, permitting her to have full management and exhibit her leg line. It was a gorgeous impact.”
Spielberg requested early on that Rachel Zegler’s gown be white on the health club dance. “I beloved that concept, as a result of it faucets into her background tie to the Catholic church, seeing this as a affirmation gown that Anita as a dressmaker has refashioned or made new,” mentioned Tazewell. “We ended up custom-embroidering the cotton, as a result of we couldn’t discover a lightweight-enough cotton to be reflective of her delicacy and the innocence.”
Ansel Elgort’s wardrobe was restricted, provided that Tony was recent out of jail — for the health club dance he wears an ill-fitting jacket that was probably owned by Valentina’s late husband.
Fourth-time nominee West, who initially turned down Denis Villeneuve’s supply to work on Dune, as a result of she had by no means accomplished sci-fi, advised THR that the director responded, “That’s why I need you. I don’t need it to seem like a typical sci-fi film; I need it grounded in historical past.'”
“I’m an enormous fan of British artwork historian John Berger,” continued West, “and he says that to know what the long run’s going to seem like, it's a must to have a look at the previous. So I went a thousand years prior to now to search out 10,000 years sooner or later. I got here up with this concept of a ‘mod-ieval’ model and based mostly the Spacing Guild [costumes] on the Avignon Papacy — I took photos of the work of all of the medieval popes and gave it a contemporary take — as a result of they persecuted the Templars, and I all the time thought the Home Atreides was betrayed by the Emperor and his individuals.”
Appears worn by Rebecca Ferguson within the movie’s first half had been impressed by clothier Cristóbal Balenciaga, who was influenced by paintings by Goya and Vélazquez. For the turmeric-toned robe that Girl Jessica wears when she lands on Arrakis, West was influenced by clothes of the Center East and appeared to work of ladies in North Africa. “This gown has 100 yards of cloth within the practice, and the beading was all hand chain-linked by a specialty costume maker from England, Bryony Tyrrell,” says West. “We name it the most costly costume ever made, as a result of she labored on it for about eight months at her hourly price!”
Morgan urged partnering with sculptor Jose Fernandez of Ironhead Studio in Van Nuys, behind a few of Hollywood’s most memorable superhero costumes, to work on the 250 stillsuits worn in actual desert sandstorms whereas filming in Jordan. One is on show.
“[Dune author] Frank Herbert so fastidiously describes it as a survival go well with within the desert,” she mentioned. “Bob [Morgan] took Jose’s prototype to Budapest and arrange a manufacturing facility at Origo [Studios] in our massive airplane hangar and we made all of them there. The thought is that the stillsuit collects waste water [perspiration and urine] and recycles it like a distillery to make potable water. These pockets are all locations the place the liquids are stored and there’s a pumping motion that begins at your heels and pumps all of the fluids again as much as your mouth. I hold saying we’re going to wish these in L.A. quickly!”
